Back to Europe in 2014

Neuschwanstein Castle - Bavaria, Germany

I'm so far behind on my posting, but I need to add one more as I've begun doing planning for a trip to Europe this Fall.  Have absolutely no itinerary set yet, but I'm thinking the Saturday after Labor Day (September 6) for maybe 4 weeks.  Right now I'm trying to decide if I fly open-jaw (in one city and out another) with the idea of maybe coming into Dublin or Rome and going out the other with lots of travel in between, or whether it should be round-trip with lots of travel in between.

Definitely packing one carry-on bag only and planning to go to lots of different cities by train.  I think I can plan day tours in each city to maximize my time in each place, but plan to stay at least 2 nights in each place so I can get some rest along the way.

Doing a lot of reading right now but I'm getting pretty excited!

Glensheen

In anticipation of the visit to Duluth and the Glensheen mansion I read "Will to Murder," the book written by one of the reporters who covered the case at the time of the murder of Elisabeth Congdon, along with the head detective and the (then) D.A. who prosecuted the case.  The book was riveting and I'm embarrassed that this entire story was unknown to me.

Interestingly, the route that I took to get to Duluth was through the far north of Wisconsin, which was done in an effort to see some Fall color. Looking at a map, though, I realized that the road would take me through Brule.  Elisabeth Congdon had a weekend home in Brule and, in fact, had been there the weekend before her murder. Didn't know if the property is still in the family (the house in Duluth passed to the University of Minnesota at Elisabeth's death as a result of a clause in her father's will), but the Brule property was privately owned by Elisabeth so it would have passed to her heirs. While it may sold in the past 30 years, I thought I'd try to see it anyway for the sake of symmetry given that I was on my way to Glensheen.

Bed & Breakfast in Duluth

The drive this morning from Ashland took me near the Brule River and there was just the smallest amount of color in the trees, but we're definitely a couple of weeks from full color.  What an odd year:  terrible spring, indifferent summer, and now a late fall.

When I got to Superior, it was interesting to note that absolutely nothing looked familiar.  I realize that it's been 40 years since I lived here, and then only for a short time, but it was as though I had never been here at all.  All in all, Superior is definitely the poor relation compared to Duluth, but it appears that the downtown area of Superior is undergoing major renovations to restore the storefronts and buildings to former glory.  Perhaps it will be a beautiful community again at some point.

Oh, and by the way, I did drive around the area called Congdon Road near Brule thinking that maybe I'd stumble on the summer 'cottage' used by Elisabeth Congdon.  No such luck.  I'm not even sure I was in the right neighborhood.  Drove down a driveway just to check it out and surprised a nice gentleman who was getting ready to go fly fishing.  I just told him I was looking for a Boy Scout camp.

The lovely Ellery House in Duluth

In keeping with my 'historic tour' theme, I booked two nights a beautiful bed & breakfast in Duluth. Unfortunately, there isn't a lot of information about the home.  It was built in 1890 by Ellery and Lilla Holliday and is described as a graceful Queen Anne Victorian with carved gables, turreted porch, and beveled and stained glass windows.  Holliday was a real estate developer and the home reflects the elegance and extravagance of the times.  It was built at a cost of $6,500.   Later, Thomas and Daisy Wahl owned The Ellery House.  He was a business tycoon known as 'Seaway Sam' for his enthusiastic and tireless promotion of the St. Lawrence Seaway.  Thomas and Daisy Wahl were also figure skaters.  They skated exhibitions for audiences around the world, including the King of England.

The Thomas Wahl room where I can see Lake Superior from the window

In 1987, it was purchased by the present owners, Joan and Jim Halquist, and they turned The Ellery House into an inn.  There are two guest bedrooms and two guest suites; I'm in the Thomas Wahl room. The room is one floor up and a lovely bay window and windows that open! There is a gas fireplace that I might try out tonight if it gets cool enough. There are hand-made tiles of pink flowers in relief all the way around the fireplace with alternating pink and green tiles on the hearth. The bathroom looks like maybe it was a closet at one time. The toilet and a tiled shower are behind the door, and a pedestal sink is in the bedroom portion. The dressers and side tables are marble-topped, like Grandma's dresser.

My delicious home cooked breakfast served in my room

Like all inns, the rooms downstairs are common rooms:  large parlor, dining room, kitchen. Breakfast is served each morning, or you can have it in your room (which I'm going to do tomorrow), and coffee and tea are always available. Also available are sherry and port for a nightcap.

I should have plenty of time to catch up on my blogs tonight -- there are no TVs anywhere in the house!  

Fall Color (?) Drive

As part of my new hobby, I'm heading to Superior and Duluth for a couple of days of house viewing before heading down to Minneapolis for a 4-day conference of the Jane Austen Society of North America.  Since the long drive had to be undertaken, why not take the long way up through the northern regions of Wisconsin in search of Fall color.  Although I kept going farther and farther north today, there was very little Fall color to be had even though we're well into September.

North of Tomahawk, I was stopped by an Oneida County sheriff's deputy who graciously let me know that the road had changed from 65 to 55 a few miles back.  Really nice guy who just gave me a warning; I suspect it happens a lot.  Anyway, I asked his opinion on the route I should take to Duluth with the goal being to see some color.  He agreed with me that I should just continue going north to Hurley and across Highway 2.  Jeff and I had gone as far north as Manitowish Waters to see Little Bohemia a few years ago, but I think that's as far north as I had ever gone.

The drive was beautiful but there just isn't much color yet.  Finally decided to stop for the night in Ashland and, as I came into Ashland, the sun started going down and the sky was a beautiful pink. Just as I finally found a Super 8 to stop for the night, I was able to get this quick shot of the sun setting behind Chequamegon Bay.  It's directly across the street from the motel so I'm looking forward to seeing the whole view tomorrow morning before I set out for Superior/Duluth.